An artisanally crafted blog curated by Cooking Lager for discerning readers of beer bloggery

Thursday, 15 June 2017

Ain't no mountain high enough, to keep me from lager.

Having settled in, got the lie of the land & know enough to not get lost it was time to do some of the outer reaches of the book. I could say bollocks to the book and stick around Domanikaner straße (where all the decent gaffs are) as I was very far from bored with most of those. I had personally named the street in my mind as piss alley. Not because it was covered in piss but because of the high density of piss artists getting pissed. That and the fact that I hadn’t quite made it to the final destination last time made me think of a second stab but starting later so as to pace myself.

But bollocks to that. It’s the afternoon. I’m in foreign parts. What time is it? It’s get out there and get yourself a pint time, that’s what time.

I’d plotted my route to the brewery museum & the kellers, gartens (gaffs) around it. In the Michaelsberg area of my map. Now I know enough German to know that berg means mountain. I had congratulated myself earlier in the market for knowing bergkäse was mountain cheese. Cheese of the mountain. Not to be confused with Glockendkäse. Not ever. Under any circumstances. If ever offered the latter by a moustachioed gentleman in a beer garden, politely decline for if you check your watch you would discover it is not in fact brotzeit and never will be. Bergkäse, on the hand. Knock yourself out.

My Berg error was only a minor error, for Michaelsberg was hardly a mountain. More a steep hill. The type of hill that would have my dear old elderly mother wanting a cup of tea and a nice sit down at the top of it. Not Ranulph Fiennes complaining that he needed another toe amputating. My bottle of coke zero was still ice cold by the time I’d got there and a few swigs and a “blimey, by ‘eck, I’d of run up that 20 year ago, look at me now” I was as right as rain.


I did the brewery museum first. 4 euros and as long as you like to look at a fine collection of old brewery tat collected over many years and lovingly presented for your delectation. If you like looking at this sort of crap then it’s worth the crack but even if you don’t it’s worth popping in it to see if you can find the new addition I added to one exhibit. A printed off picture of the TAND with the caption. Why not visit and see if you can find it. I doubt they’ll remove it. They don’t look like they dust the gaff that often.


The Tandleman
Der Vater des modernen Bierschreibens und der Bierkommunikation im elektronischen Zeitalter.
The father of modern beer writing and beer communication in the electronic age.

The gaffs around the museum were worth a look as was the surrounding area. As you might expect when you climb a hill, you get a view of the lower down bits and the pick of the places to sit would be the Michaelsberg Café & Restaurant. Nice sunshine, nice ice-cold lout. Building work was occurring in an around the area so there wasn’t much to be seen.

That's German for Man Beer. A fact that had me quite literally shaking with rage.

Howay. I’d done in a couple of hours what I thought would take the afternoon.
So, I headed down the hill to go for a beer at Klosterbrau, a brewery. I chose the beer garden and blimey. A rough Wetherspoons beer garden had nowt on it. Tables of lairy drunk German blokes shouting whilst older couples were getting up leaving. I decided to stay and watch it in case it all kicked off. Usually they don’t tolerate this sort of stuff but apparently here they do and sadly for my entertainment all I got were some weary sighs from the waitresses and the opportunity to hear German “bantz”

Then on to another Berg, Stephansberg, to check out a few bier gartens. The Spezial Keller for the first and without spoiling it the better one. I had something to eat to go with a Spezial Rauchbier and even got into a conversation with a nice German family. A young university student taking his mum & dad out who were visiting and checking up on him and making sure he was eating properly and only dating nice girls and not knocking around with slappers. Beyond where you from, England? Etc they inevitably asked me about Brexit. There’s a conversation that stretches your language skills beyond where they are & has you dropping back out into English. I think they liked my explanation that beyond whatever your opinion of the EU you might have, in England there isn’t the European identity you notice in Germany. People would never describe themselves as European. Those that advocated remaining made a technical case that whilst the EU was shite, we had opts out from the worst of it whilst those that advocated leaving made the case that it wasn’t worth the money. Meanwhile most of the country, of whatever side, accepted it wasn’t a trading club but a US of E, with the remainers thinking it was a better if that was lied about or not mentioned rather than the merits advocated. Try saying all that in German. On your fourth Rauchbier. There were no fallings out though I think I might have altered their opinion that Brexit was not going to happen, an opinion common in the German media. Surprising to me what their opinion that they were quite sad about it & seemed to think of it as a family member leaving not just a cheque book. You live and learn when you talk to people & I appreciated hearing a different view to what you get in England.



The Wilde Rose Keller next and now it was dark. I’d stopped in the last gaff, talking Brexit. Here was self-service with a 3-euro deposit on the krugs. They must have known I was in town. I sunk one but couldn’t really taste it after all the Rauchbier but I’d least I’d got the tick whilst up the hill. That’s the main thing. Getting the tick.


Not a bad day’s work, tick wise. I had come to realise a truth. Ticking from a book gives order, structure & purpose to your piss artistry. Without it, it lacks structure and is just a random jaunt. Leave you with that thought to ponder.





3 comments:

Tandleman said...

You might have left a more up to date photo.

Tandleman said...

PS.The Wilde Rose is my favourite keller in Bamberg. Go there first imo.

Matt said...

I'm ashamed to say that I gave up trying to walk to the top of Michaelsberg after about a hundred yards when I was in Bamberg and went to Schlenkerla instead. I obviously have less stamina than your dear old elderly mother.